How to bind Jumper T-Lite with a Turnigy Receiver

I bought 5 second hand RC planes to get me started in Radio Control plane flying. 3 of them had Turnigy equipment with a Turnigy TGY 9X transmitter (with a Turnigy RF 9Xv2 protocol module) already bound.

But then I bought the new Jumper T-Lite transmitter with the JP4IN1 (multi-protocol) module from BangGood and I decided I wanted to stop using the clunky old 9X, and switch those planes over to my wonderful new T-Lite.

I thought – great, it’s “multiprotocol” – this should be easy, but when I tried to set the T-Lite to “Turnigy” – well it wasn’t there! No such option. No “Turnigy” at all not even close. So I got online, went to google, YouTube, and I could not find anything that would tell me how to bind my T-Lite to the Turnigy 9X8Cv2 receivers that I got with those 3 second-hand planes.

I looked for binding the Jumper T16 – still no luck. Of course there was lots about binding the T16 in general, and lots of great info about binding the T-Lite to all kinds of receivers, but nothing about binding them with Turnigy receivers.

I did figure out that the Turnigy probably used AFHDS or AFHDS2a and I found this website that has a comprehensive list of all the possible protocols, but I still couldn’t figure out which protocol to choose. It was tantilisingly close, and I tried the two FlySky protocols that listed “AFHDS” but … no joy, and the light kept blinking and the receiver kept beeping.

Then I found a wonderful article on the FliteTest forum that gave me the final clue. It was just by pure chance, or persistent searching, because this article doesn’t say anything about Open-Tx or binding or any of those things, but a user called lrussi750 says one very important thing.

The (FlySky) TH9X and the (Turnigy) 9X are the same radio and the only difference I’ve seen is color. I have both radios. 

FliteTest Forums – FLYSKY FS-TH9X Vs TURNIGY 9X

Eureka! So – this should mean that if I select “FlySky” on my T-Lite it should be able to bind. Well I tried it and it works! This is a screenshot of the protocol setting I used to bind the Turnigy 9X8Cv2 receiver to my Jumper T-Lite.

Use FlySky – subtype (subprotocol) Std – and it will work!

I do feel kind of silly that I didn’t get it when I figured out that Turnigy uses AFHDS, but I am just so happy!

And – very happy with the Jumper T-Lite – what a great little radio.

Sopwith Pup by Dancing Wings Hobby

I ordered the “micro” scale model of the Sopwith Pub by Dancing Wings Hobby from Amazon as a kit in including an electric motor, ESC (Electronic Speed Controller) and 2 servos. All I need to buy (I thought) was a receiver and I’d have everything I needed to build my first complete radio controlled model from scratch.

And so the journey began.

A lot of the details you can see on my YouTube channel “Tim the Plane Man”. The playlist is here:

But there are some details that make more sense to post as text, so I’m including them here.

Build Order

As I worked through building the model, I realized that the numbered instructions should NOT be followed “step by step”. It’s not a big problem, just follow these steps and you will find that the model comes together much easier.

  1. Install the mounting base for the motor and power system as per the plan at 1.
  2. Install the electronics in the mounting base. The Instructions have this at step 6. Do the first few items from Step 6, but do not connect the servos to the pushrods yet, and don’t connect the elevator and rudder at the end of Step 6. Test the electronics with a transmitter – make sure the servos and motor are working.
  3. Assemble the fuselage – but don’t put on the bottom yet. First insert the pushrods for elevator and rudder and connect them to the servos as per the pictures in Step 6. These can be connected to the elevator and rudder later, but it’s much better to connect to the servos now. Put on the bottom of the fuselage _after_ testing again that the electronics are working and the pushrods move back and forth, even though they are not connected to the rudder and elevator yet.
  4. Don’t install the magnets in the fuselage in Step 2, so don’t following the printed instructions for this. Wait till you have the cowling finished.
  5. Build the cowling, then line up the magnets in the fuselage with the cowling. Make sure to get the polarity of the magnets right so they click into place instead of pushing apart. This is covered in detail on YouTube here:
  6. Build the wheels, but don’t put the undercarriage on the fuselage yet, wait till you have put on the wings first.
  7. Assemble the wings. Instructions Step 5. If you are going to paint. Assemble but don’t install on the fuselage!
  8. Optional step – if you want to paint, do it now before you put everything together.
  9. Install the wings on the plane (this is the second part of Instructions Step 5).
  10. Assemble the elevator and rudder and install on the plane, connect the control horns to the control rods as per the picture at the very end of Instructions Step 6. Test it again, make sure everything is working smoothly.
  11. Install the undercarriage and wheels and put on the propeller.
  12. Congratulations! Gong xi! You are done!


There are some things in the instructions that are not clear, missing or in a couple of places, just plain wrong. These are some key things you need to know.

Screws on the power frame go on the bottom.

If you need to remove the mounting base later for whatever reason (perhaps something isn’t working or you want to change the hole position you are using on the servo arms), then if the screws are put in from the top you will have to cut a hole in the top of the fuselage to remove the screws and slide out the mounting base. I did this, it wasn’t pretty.

If you put the screws in from the underside, they are easily accessible via the hatch on the bottom of the fuselage.

This one picture is with the mounting base upside down. All the others are from the top. You might not notice it, but it is very important.

There are four “j” pieces to install on the power system mounting base.

The Instructions only show 2 – actually the picture shows all 4 pieces, but only has 2 red arrows showing 2 “j” pieces to be installed. Find all 4 of these and install them now. It will be very difficult to fix this later if you miss it now.

These two “j” pieces at the bottom are where the undercarriage screws onto the fuselage. If you miss these now you will not be able to install the undercarriage unless you cut open the fuselage and put the “j” pieces in.

Also – install the “j” pieces before you install “I”, so reverse these pictures.

Don’t put the tail peg in right away.

This is more of a suggestion, but I found it so easy to accidentally break the tail peg when doing other parts of the plane. Perhaps delay installing it until just before you put on the elevator and rudder. Also – soak the tail peg in CA glue/super glue for strength. It is very fragile and needs beefing up.

Watch out for the Q ribs

When building the wings there are whole lot of “R” ribs, but only 2 “Q” ribs which go on the very inside of the lower wing. Pay attention to this and don’t accidentally put the Q ribs somewhere else.

How to connect the pushrods to the servos

The Instructions at Step 6, picture 5 shows how to connect the “6” wooden pieces to the end of the pushrods and then attaching them to the servo arms. But the picture is all you get and it’s really not clear how to connect the wire pieces provided to the servo arms. Zooming in the picture on the instructions doesn’t make it clear, because the picture is so grainy.

So I made my best guess and here are pictures showing how I did it. It works! (Maybe there is a better way, but this way works).

The picture from the Instructions is not very clear.

I glued the small wire pieces to the wooden “6” pieces on the end of the control rods.
Then I inserted the bent end of the wire into the correct hole in the servo arm.

If using a brushless motor don’t install the lead weights as per the Instructions.

If you put the lead weight at the top of the special mounting base shown in “8. Assemble the Brushless Motor”, you will not be able to put the cowling on. Following the build instructions for “brushless motor”, the weight wrapped around the screw gets in the way, preventing the cowling from being clicked onto it’s magnet.

Instead, I suggest you install any weight required in the bays behind the motor, there is one at the top and one at the bottom.

You will need a lot of weight. The included weight was not enough to get the centre of gravity right for me. I had to add more, for a total of 12g, to get it the centre of gravity to where it should be according to the instructions.

This is for brushless motor only. I don’t know what happens with a brushed motor.


This is what I used to build the plane.

Motor: Brushless Motor: MM1104 3700KV (included with the kit from Amazon)

Receiver: AEORC Rx144-E DSMX compatible mini micro receiver with built in 5A/1S ESC.

Receiver manual at

ESC: Not required because the Rx144-E has a built in ESC

Servos. 1.7 g micro servos x2 (included with the kit from Amazon)

Battery: 150 mAh 1S 30C Lipo

Total weight for these electronics is 15g.

Final Comments

The model as built following these instructions, with painting, looks great! I am very happy with the look, everything is working and with a few finishing touches should be ready for it’s maiden flight.

But it’s very heavy. 60g total weight. The specifications for the plane say flying weight is 42-50 grams, so it is 10 grams overweight.

If I weight the model with the painting that I did, it comes out to 70g. I built the same model again without painting – 60g, still 10g higher than recommended, but I don’t think I could get it any lighter.

I’m also worried that it might be underpowered with the 150 mAh battery, which is light and small, but also less than the 200-250 mAh battery specified by Dancing Wings.

So this is my plan – I don’t want to break my lovely plane, so I have ordered a new kit, and I’m going to build it again, bare bones, following my instructions above. I’ll see how the weight turns out with no filler, painting or any special decoration and put in a 200 mAh battery. Then I’ll fly it – when I won’t be so worried if the plan turns into a pile of matchsticks!

Dancing Wings Fokker-E build

Dancing Wings Fokker-E box (Fokker E.III)

When I built the Dancing Wings Hobby Fokker-E (the small 420 mm wingspan version), I learned a lot of very interesting things. Well, I find them interesting. So I thought I would share them in case anyone else finds them interesting or even helpful.


The instructions are cryptic. A single page with lots of colour pictures and some limited and very tiny writing. I needed a magnifying glass to make sure I didn’t miss important details. There are lots of comments about the instructions from buyers, so I think others have the same problem I did.

You have to read and follow the instructions very, very carefully. I missed one piece, which I didn’t find before it was too late, simply by failing to notice the tiny label on a one of the picture steps.

The instructions also don’t include what you might think is very basic information. Glue is a good example. They don’t say anything about glue. I mostly used standard white wood glue, but sometimes Superglue (CA some people call it). For example I glued in the magnets using Superglue. I guess I made reasonable assumptions, and I think I got it right, but nothing – absolutely nothing in the instructions about what glue to use and where it should be used.


There is very little information in the instructions about electronics. The kit I ordered included a brushless motor, but the instructions which described how to install it described a different one, so I had to “figure it out”. There was nothing about how to install an ESC, receiver or servos.

The instructions do say which electronics to buy – but nothing about how to install them.

Youtube Video

There is a Youtube Video! This was a great find, and very, very helpful. There is an animated video from Dancing Wings Hobby, that kind of shows how to put the kit together. Again it doesn’t mention basics like glue, but it does show the order very well, and even gave some additional hints about installing the electronics that you don’t get in the printed instructions. I built the plane with the video open on my laptop and paused in my browser. At each next step, I would hit play, wait a couple of seconds and pause again so I could see the next step. You can find the video here:

Decoration – Paint, Decals etc.

The instructions say nothing about paint or other decorations. The video does show some things like Iron Cross decals and a white rudder that are not in the instructions. They look great. So I painted the rudder white and made some iron cost decals by cutting out some Cricut black vinyl. I’m not sure if that’s what I was supposed to do (there are no decals in the kit), but I think it looks great.

After finishing and trying to paint the wheels, I realized that I should have painted them before putting them on. Nothing about that in the instructions. With all of the very fine detail, such as the rigging and struts, it’s almost impossible to paint after everything is connected, so ask yourself at each step – will I want to paint this? If so – paint it now before installing it. Some things I wish I had painted first:

  • The wheels
  • The landing gear
  • The rudder
  • The frame in front of the cockpit that holds up the rigging
  • White stripes on the wings to frame the Iron crosses (see some original pictures)
  • The pilot
  • The railing around the cockpit


There are several small magnets included and the instructions are very precise about where they need to be placed, but gives no hint about polarity. For example it says to put two magnets on the underside of the cowling. This is to hold the cowling in place. Then somewhere else in the build it says put two magnets on the brackets at the front of the frame that hold the cowling. If you don’t think ahead, you could install these two magnets so that when you try to put the cowling on it will bounce right out, rather than clicking into place. You need to get the polarity right for each and every one.

The thing is – the different pictures and sequences don’t really join this together, so unless you hunt down the “other end” of the magnet you are installing, you won’t know which end is which. So here is what I do:-

  1. Take the magnets apart in pairs.
  2. Mark each magnet with a ‘dot’ using a sharpie to show sides that need to be apart
  3. Find both sides of the magnet connection on the plans.
  4. Make sure to install each magnet with the dot (from step 2) away from the other magnet.

The magnets are also a bit small. I guess this is my opinion, but there are two hints that I am right. The first is that the holes in the balsa for the magnets are far too big for the magnets provided. Around half the size. So even with copious Superglue, the magnet sort of floats in the hole for it. The second hint is that when clicking things like the electronics hatch on the underside of the plane in place, the hatch seems very loose. It feels like it might drop out, the magnet isn’t holding it very tightly. I bought some larger magnets and replaced some of those that came with the kit and got a much more satisfying “click” and much more satisfying and firmer hold.

Continued …

I’m still building this model, so likely there is more to come. This is where I’m at so far:

Dancing Wings Fokker E.III as at 19 April 2021